Nantucket Jacket, IK Winter 06
Tana points out that “the tops of set-in sleeves should be 35% of the master number (around the bust).” The sleeves are definitely too tight for the size I knit, unless you have skinny arms for your body size (it happens but never to me). My most recent thoughts on the sleeves are: 1) it was an honest mistake (we all make them… ok, I make them), or 2) it was designed so that the pattern would stretch out a bit on the arm. Maybe the designer thought it would look better with negative ease.
Tana also noted, “It looks good in the waist ease-wise but a bit snug around the bustline and too big at the hips.” This is exactly how it fit.
I need to refit the sweater regardless of bust size because it did end up with an “A”-line, or pear, shape that doesn’t suit my hour-glass shape. I wish I measured the finished hip-size before I ripped it out so I could verify my gauge. Using the pattern gauge and the stitch counts for the size 41.5 (which I knit), the bust would be about 41.5″ and the hip 46.5″ (assuming my math is correct). With my measurements that would give negative ease in the bust and positive ease in the hips. And it did. I could have knit the 46.5″ size pattern for positive ease in the bust but I didn’t want that much ease in the bust, and it would have had too much ease in the hip.
I also knit a smaller size because I am an eternal optimist about how I’m going to lose weight *ahem*. Did you notice how I avoided admitting my actual measurements on the internets? Ha! I can’t lie to myself if it’s in print on the internets!
In the magazine pictures, you don’t really see the bottom of the sweater on both sides of the model’s hips. On page 64, it looks like she might have a bit of extra fabric on the bottom right but the picture is too blurry there to tell for sure. I think you could block out some of the ease and ruffles depending on your yarn. I didn’t block my sweater because I knew I was going to rip it out if only for the tight arms.
The godets (triangles) pull up on their own because of the seed stitch. The cable stitch is firmer so you end up with a natural scallop in the seed stitch portions (it shows on the magazine cover). Also, my ruffles were probably worse because I didn’t sew the side seam all the way to the bottom (but the seams were not stretching out so there was positive ease here).
I agree with Tana (and others) that length should be added above the godets (triangles). The length issue is a personal preference thing. If I were going to wear it over a shirt like the model or a dress, I would keep it short (and more fashionable).
I want to reiterate that I love the look of Nantucket. I am still considering reknitting it. It has taught me a very important lesson though. Heed this lesson! You need to check your gauge before knitting, and then check all the dimensions of the sweater before you knit it. In hindsight, it seems like common sense… but I’m lazy.